Most visitors to Albania come for the beaches. And the beaches are genuinely stunning — Ksamil, Dhermi, Himara, the whole Albanian Riviera is having a well-deserved moment in the spotlight.
But if you leave Albania without visiting Berat and Gjirokastër, you've missed the soul of the country.
These two cities are unlike anything else in the Balkans. Both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Both perched dramatically in mountain landscapes. Both carrying centuries of Ottoman, Byzantine, and Albanian history in their stones. And in 2026, both are still relatively uncrowded compared to the coastal towns — which means you can actually experience them.
Berat: The City of a Thousand Windows
Berat earned its nickname — "the city of a thousand windows" — from the distinctive Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside, their oversized windows gleaming in the afternoon sun. It's one of the most photogenic cities in the entire Balkans, and it knows it — but somehow manages not to feel touristy.
What Makes Berat Special
The old quarter of Mangalem sits on the right bank of the Osum River, its white-plastered houses rising steeply toward the 13th-century citadel. The citadel itself — Kalaja — is still a living neighbourhood. People live inside the castle walls. You can walk through their streets, visit Byzantine churches that predate the Ottoman conquest, and look out over one of the most arresting views in Albania.
When to Go & How Long to Stay
Berat is at its best in spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) — warm, green, and before or after the beach crowds. A full day is enough to see the highlights; stay overnight if you can, because the city at dusk — when the windows catch the last light — is something you won't forget.
Gjirokastër: The City of Stone
If Berat is light — all white plaster and bright windows — Gjirokastër is its opposite. Dark slate roofs, heavy stone towers, streets that climb so steeply you sometimes need stairs instead of roads. It's brooding, beautiful, and completely unlike anywhere else in Albania.
What Makes Gjirokastër Special
Gjirokastër was the birthplace of Enver Hoxha — Albania's communist dictator — and of Ismail Kadare, Albania's greatest novelist. That tension between tyranny and art is woven into the city's fabric. The old bazaar, the Ottoman towers (kulla), and the massive citadel that dominates the skyline all speak to a city that has survived centuries of conquest and reinvention.
When to Go & How Long to Stay
Gjirokastër is a full day, minimum. The city rewards slow walking — getting lost in the old quarter, stopping for byrek at a local bakery, climbing up to the castle as the light changes. Stay overnight and you'll have the old town almost entirely to yourself in the morning.
It's also the perfect base for visiting the Blue Eye natural spring (Syri i Kaltër) — one of Albania's most extraordinary natural phenomena, about 30 minutes away.
Combining Both Cities: The Perfect Albania Itinerary
Berat and Gjirokastër are roughly 2 hours apart by road — which makes them perfect to combine on a multi-day inland itinerary. A suggested route:
- Day 1: Arrive Tirana Airport → transfer directly to Berat. Afternoon walk through Mangalem, evening in the castle.
- Day 2: Morning in Berat (Onufri Museum, Gorica quarter) → drive south to Gjirokastër (2 hours). Explore the old bazaar and castle.
- Day 3: Morning in Gjirokastër → visit Blue Eye → continue to the Riviera (Saranda or Himara) for beach days. See our Vlora Airport guide if you're flying home from the south.
Getting There: What You Need to Know
Neither Berat nor Gjirokastër has a train station. Intercity buses (furgons) connect them to Tirana, but schedules are infrequent and journey times are long. For most visitors, a pre-booked private transfer is the most practical solution.
- TIA → Berat: ~1h 45min · €115 (sedan) / €155 (minivan)
- TIA → Gjirokastër: ~3h · €205 (sedan) / €285 (minivan)
- Berat → Gjirokastër: ~2h · contact us for a quote
- Gjirokastër → Saranda: ~1h 15min · a natural next stop on the southern route